Tuesday, April 20, 2010


I scored yesterday, against all my expectations. I arrived at the beach to see it looking gloriously flat, then wondered to myself exactly how far up round the rocks I could go at low tide, and whether the southerly would maybe be wrapping in a bit better further up. Just as I did so, a surfer appeared from around the corner - and she said "Yeah, there's a few sizey ones up there..." Looking at the picture below, you could understand why I thought she was full of it, but she wasn't.

Solid three-four feet sets, barreling down the sandbank, in the lee of a sunlit-orange cliff. Perfect - and I enjoyed it, despite finding myself too slow to my feet, or trapped behind the section, or picking the wrong one, time and again. Relearning the beachie skills after three years on the mechanical points and reefs of taranaki is all part of the fun. Surfing in beautiful places like this is compensation enough, anyway.


Post a Comment

Hi, thanks for reading - comments welcome!